The noise was wild and untamed — the primeval voice of Africa herself. The full-chested roars of two male lions echoed across the plain, striking terror into their prey and pumping adrenaline into our veins. Nine-year old Annalyse slipped her tiny hand into mine and squeezed it. I squeezed back with a sweaty palm. Naturally our first reaction was fear. After all, my husband, two daughters and I were in a Land Rover with our torsos emerging from the open roof, nothing more than fifty yards and a jeep door between us and these fierce predators. We were close enough to see their individual whiskers and piercing amber eyes. The two males continued to greet each other with verbal ferocity as the morning air vibrated with their deep vocalizations. “I guess we’re not in Kansas anymore,” whispered our sarcastic twelve-year-old J.C. “Keep quiet and don’t make any quick movements. They haven’t had breakfast yet,” Tanzanian guide Leonard said with the hint of a smile. Instructions understood; we remained still and silent, in heart-pounding proximity to the lions that strutted and stretched in the orange luminescence of the rising sun.

Soon our bellies growled and we headed back to camp for our own meals. Every day we kept a tally of the animals we saw; in addition to the lions, we watched twenty-one elephants ambling to the watering hole from all directions, leaping impala (we clapped for their high jumps), two loping hyenas, four comical wart hogs zigzagging through the grass with their tails pointing skyward, and dozens of zebra and Thomson’s gazelles – all before a hearty breakfast of scrambled eggs and cinnamon buns.

A jeep turned classroom:

At dawn and again late in the afternoon we joined our Tanzanian guide and driver in a land rover, and headed into the bush. Careening around termite mounds, up steep banks and down rutted slopes, we watched wildlife from a breathtakingly close vantage point. Sometimes we stayed with them even as they closed in on prey, other times we came upon them just after a kill.

The kids adored Leonard, the Pied Piper of African guides. They listened eagerly as he shared his extensive knowledge about the local mammals, birds and history of the Great Rift Valley; from Tarangire National Park to Olduvai Gorge, and the Serengeti to the Norgorogora Crater.

Prior to our African vacation we thought observing the big animals would be the zenith of our trip, however the camaraderie with our guides, and numerous contacts with the local people were equal highlights. One day we had lunch with our guide and his family in their home. Another day we visited a Masaai village where the homes were made of cow dung, the women wore massive bead necklaces, flies buzzed overhead and hovered around the children’s eyes. The village chief, wealthy enough to have two wives, took my husband aside for a private conversation, in which he offered him two goats for our oldest daughter.

An excerpt from the kids’ safari journals:

“Right before dinner we sneaked up to the roofless shower tent where Leonard was showering. We got a bucket of ice, filled it with cold water and I stood on a stool and dumped it over the top onto him. It was hilarious! He screeched and swore. It was awesome”, wrote JC.

“I drove for the first time today – across the Serengeti! Leonard took me out in the Land Rover and when I took the wheel we jerked and bumped through the grass. Mom and Dad applauded from the porch of their tent. It was so cool!”

On another page she describes our visit to a country school where the girls met the pen pals they corresponded with for several months.

“Children attend this school because their parents are wealthy enough to spare them from working at home. Most of them walk two miles or more each way. Hollow cement block rooms with wood benches passed as classrooms and the wild outdoors served as a bathroom. We all played soccer together. They played in their starched blue skirts and white blouses and barefooted. We wore our athletic shoes and they still pummeled us.”

Annalyse’s journal is adorned with drawings of animals, Maasai homes and smiley faces. “Today my favorite animals were the baby baboons and baby elephants. I was happy and excited (all day long!)”, she wrote.

Parent Concerns:

Our “trip of a lifetime” to Africa was a major investment in time, money and family memories, so I did extensive research to find a tour operator who specializes in family trips. We wanted Tanzanian-born guides who knew how to entertain, feed and teach young kids – and they were fabulous companions and teachers. A range of accommodations was also important. We enjoyed safari lodges, comfy rooms on a working coffee estate, and deluxe walk-in canvas tents. Camping in the bush was a highlight. Make sure not to miss it.

Preparing for your safari:

Medical and safety issues were our major concerns before the trip. We were comforted by the detailed pre-departure package including; answers to our questions, check lists, recommended immunizations, packing and reading lists. We followed the advice of doctors at a travel clinic and took Larium, the strong Malaria medicine. Our nine-year-old had nightmares and walked in her sleep after taking the medicine.

We worried about our safety on safari. Would animals come into camp? All our worries were unfounded. Guards patrolled all night in every camp.

What’s the best age?

In my experience, the best age for a family safari is when your kids are 8-12 years-old. They are old enough to appreciate and remember what they’re seeing, to write about it, and learn, and yet they’re still young enough to enjoy your company, participate in all activities and be awed by the natural world. Our thirteen-day safari was the perfect length.

Don’t leave home without:

A good pair of good binoculars for each member of the family. No one should have to share their binoculars. Label each pair.

Sophisticated travelers often rank San Francisco, Cape Town and Sidney as the most beautiful cities in the world. From the hilly neighborhoods dotted with peach, yellow, and lime-colored wooden homes to the colorful waterfront, Cape Town can confidently accept this praise. An excellent climate, friendly folk, beaches stretching forever, swooping seagulls and sun-kissed surfers make Cape Town the country’s most vibrant city.

Table Mountain, towering 3,500-feet above the city of 3 million, is the symbol of Cape Town, like Statue of Liberty for New York City, Big Ben for London, and the Eiffel Tower for Paris.

South Africa’s legislative capital and oldest city boast top-rated hotels, internationally ranked restaurants, boutique shopping trendy wine bars and a night life that never stops. Jazz clubs swing with the multi-cultural sounds of Cape Jazz, distinctive for its Latin, Africa and Malay influences.

Top Sights Not to Miss:

Victoria & Alfred Waterfront: This entertainment district overflows with pubs, restaurants, clubs, art galleries, museums and night life. Dedicated shoppers will enjoy the shopping mall and crafts centers. The waterfront offers boating excursions, two movie theaters, an IMAX theater, and the Two Oceans Aquarium.

Robben Island:  South Africa’s Alcatraz is a former prison perched on limestone rock in Table Bay where Nelson Mandela was incarcerated for almost twenty years. Robben Island, a World Heritage Site and National Park, is a “must see” to learn about apartheid. You’ll need to take a ferry from Victoria and Albert Waterfront. Tours are led by former prisoners who were part of the struggle against apartheid.

Table Mountain: As the sun sets over the continent of Africa, Table Mountain reflects a red glow. The top can be reached by a hiking trail or a revolving cable car. Miles of trails cover the plateau and offer incredible views of the suburbs, bays and the sparkling sea. Visit early in the day before the clouds move in or go at sunset to avoid the crowds.

Kirstenbosch Gardens: If you love flowers or gardening, don’t miss this World Heritage Site, showcasing an enormous variety of South African plants, trees, flowers, vegetable, and succulents. A free docent tour is offered at 10 a.m. daily. The docent guide will explain plants, species and medicinal uses for the plants as she leads you through the manicured gardens, sculpture garden, and fragrance garden.

Bascule Whiskey Bar – A Cape Town Hotspot! A five minute walk from the heart of Cape Town’s shops, markets, art galleries and museums, this trendy whisky bar and wine cellar is the place to rub elbows with relaxed young professionals after work. On nice days dozens of good-looking men and attractive women sip wine, beer and whiskey under the umbrellas on the outside patio overlooking mega yachts. The nautically decorated Bascule Bar is located in the Cape Grace Hotel. Over 400 malt whiskies from every producing region including Scotland, Ireland, USA, Canada, India, and Japan are served from the long, oak bar. The walls display rare whiskies, including a 50-year-old bottle from Glenfiddich, a 35-year-old bottle of Springbank, and more. The wine collection features world-renown Cape wines and the people watching can’t be beat. Whether under the sun with moored yachts or enveloped in dark wood and warm maritime comfort, Bascule is the “in” meeting place to unwind.

An Appetite for Cape Town:

Cape Town is the place for a cross cultural food experience. The country’s rainbow culture has produced a natural fusion cuisine with enough variety and spice to satisfy any visitor. Black Africans had (and have) a healthy diet of game, fish, root vegetables, wild greens, berried, millet, sorghum and maiz. Sugar farmers brought indentured laborers from India to cut the cane, and with them they brought the distinctive cuisine of India. The British and German immigrants added European embellishments to South African fare. Workers from Malaysia brought their own dishes – all using a generous sprinkle of spices. Malay slaves brought their spicy and flavorful cuisine. French Huguenots arrived after the Dutch and introduced the vineyards that began South Africa’s love affair with fine wine. Ask where you can have a typical Cape Malay or Zulu meal.

One Market: Judging from the crowd of regulars who cram One Market, an elegant waterfront restaurant, this is the place to go for creative cuisine and intimate dining infused with distinctly South African flavors. Don’t miss the wild Caesar salad with three cured carpaccios of warthog, ostrich and springbok, served with toasted garlic and roasted pistachio chips. The fresh culinary ideas are balanced with flavor and the passion of Chef Bruce Robertson and his team. After your meal compliment your palate with lingering vintages and indulge in the dessert chocolate and wine pairing. Rock Salt Dark Chocolate is paired with Cabernet Sauvignon. The Masala Dark Chocolate compliments the spiciness of Shiraz wine. But best of all is the Rose Geranium Milk Chocolate that mimics the sweet raison and vanilla flavor of Muscat. Winemaker Kevin Arnold and the Chocolatier Richard Von Gensau created this experience. Epicurean dining at an elegant restaurant is part of the Cape Town’s attraction.

The Accommodations Are Also Extraordinary!

Cape Grace was voted “Best Hotel in the World” by Conde Nast Traveler in 2000 and the awards have kept on coming. Located on the picturesque Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, this Leading Hotel of the World has long been the choice for honeymooners and sophisticated travelers seeking comfort and luxury. In addition to the expected luxuries, the Cape Grace has a fabulous spa that combines understated elegance with treatments that hark back to ancient Africa – when massage and aromatic spices were used to cure a thousand ills. The Spa, as well as rooms at the Cape Grace enjoy views of Table Mountain to the south or Victoria and Alfred Waterfront and the Indian Ocean to the north.

Wine Country with Local Belvedere Ancestory:

Eric and Lente Schwartz, of Belvedere have deep roots in the Constantia Valley, the Cape’s oldest wine farming area. Lente’s family (the Louw’s) owned the Steenberg estate for three generations. Steenberg, the oldest wine estate, and a five star hotel, still produces award-winning wines. It’s a short 20 minute drive from Cape Town surrounded by pristine vineyards and nestled at the foot of the imposing Steenberg Mountains. The buildings which date back to 1682, have been lovingly restored to their former glory and each has been declared a National Historical monument. And an 18-hole championship golf course designed by Peter Matkowitz follows the natural contours of the original farm.

The property’s first owner, Catharina Ustings, arrived in the Cape in 1662 from Germany, purchasing the estate in 1682. She was first woman and this was the first farm to be given title in South Africa. Catharina was one of the most daring and controversial figures to ever settle in the Cape. One of her five husbands was killed by a lion and legend has it that Catharina hunted the lion on horseback and shot it.

The property is situated in the Constantia Valley, the Cape’s oldest wine farming area, particularly famous for its white wines, due to the cool breezes from False Bay. The flagship Sauvignon Blanc Reserve has won a number of awards worldwide, and Steenberg’s red ‘Catharina’ blend is highly recommended for its elegant French feel. Take time for a guided tour and wine tasting, and treat yourself to a Ginkgo “Elixer” Massage at the spa. The Catarina restaurant won awards for its contemporary South African Cuisine, including the American Express Platinum Award for Fine Dining.

Dozens of old wineries are located an hour east of Cape Town in the historic wine region grouped in a triangle around Stellenbosch, Franschoek and Paal. You can do wine tours by bicycle, (there are wide shoulders on the roads for bikers’ safety) or on horseback or spend a day with the wine farmer, the wine maker, and the chef to enjoy a tasting paired with local organic food in the owner’s manor house.

For the discerning guest who wants to visit a winery privately, stop at Vielliera, a family-owned little gem that no large groups or tourist buses visit. Try the Monro, a four star flagship wine with a well-structured palate, unobtrusive with a plumy and chocolate taste. Monro wines are a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Hoopenburg is a vineyard famous for its Sauvignon Blanc, selected by South African Airlines for serving to all classes of travelers.

Le Bonheur, is located off a quiet back road, at the end of a gravel driveway. The estate, built by a French Architect, is surrounded by a white picket fence and weeping willow trees. You’ll be welcomed by the sweet heady fragrance of French Jasmine as you relax at tasting tables on oriental carpets set among French armoires. Like most of the vineyards, they don’t know what to do if a vehicle arrives with more than four guests.

For More Information, please consult the South African Tourist Office 212-730-2929.

Q: What are some of the concerns your clients have before climbing Kilimanjaro?

A: I commonly get asked about altitude. Although altitude issues can affect anyone, being properly fit can help Kili climbers deal with many of the discomforts associated with high altitude symptoms.

Simply making it to the summit is another common concern. In brief, climbing stairs, treadmill work, specific “trail fitness” resistance training exercises and hiking are essential to a successful summit.

.Q: What is the most important thing to remember while training?

A: Always be aware of how your body is adapting to the training demands. Are you constantly feeling tired and sore? If so, then you might be over-training and need to take steps to decrease your training intensity or volume. Once you have recovered, you can resume training in smaller doses. However, doing so will likely increase the amount of time needed to become properly fit for your trek. This is why it is helpful to start training in advance – 12+ weeks – of your departure date. Travelers who are already fit can be aggressive and ramp up the training quickly in the pre-departure phase, say eight weeks prior to departing.

Q: Do you think anyone can make it to the summit?

A: In general, any healthy person can make it to the summit.  The formula is rather simple: train properly + ample acclimatization time + a determined attitude = summit success.

It is difficult to quantify the parts of the equation; you might not be in good shape but have the mental toughness needed for a successful summit, or you might be in incredible shape but need support to deal with the mental rigors of the final summit push. Train in both areas now, and your Thomson Kilimanjaro guide will be with you, encouraging you from first step to summit.

-Q: What are the top 3 exercises you recommend to train for Kili?

A: Climbing stairs provides the trekker with the strength to ascend the mountain carrying their body weight.  Repeatedly going down stairs trains the muscles and joints to handle the rigorous demands of descending Kilimanjaro.

Walking on the treadmill at the highest grade is important as it conditions the foot, Achilles tendon and calf muscles to handle the constant stretch and forces associated with steep grades.

Lunges. The exercise: forward/reverse lunge hop combines balance, strength, power and mobility.

Photo: Uhuru Peak, Mt. Kilimanjaro, Chris 73 / Wikimedia Commons

From our friend Ali Riley at Thomson Safaris

With its sturdy build, menacing horn and impenetrable hide, it is hard to imagine that the fate of the rhinoceros – one of the iconic Big Five – hangs in such a delicate balance. Over the past several decades, the rhino population in the Serengeti ecosystem has suffered greatly due to poaching, with rhino numbers decreasing from 1,000 to less than 70 individuals.

In an effort to save the rhinos from extinction, seven Eastern Black Rhino were transported from East Africa in 1961 to a private reserve in South Africa. The rhinos thrived in this protected area with their numbers quadrupling during their long-term visit.

In an extraordinary conservation effort, 32 rhino – descendants of the seven transplants – will be reintroduced to the Serengeti over the next two years. Last month, the first five were flown into the Seronera area and received a warm Tanzanian welcome.

In order to protect the newly introduced rhinos, radio-transmitters will be implanted in their horns and they will be guarded around the clock by specially-trained rangers, the Serengeti Rhino Protection Unit (SRPU).

Guest blogger  Helga Ausman on climbing one of the world’s great peaks–at 78.

Five years ago when I was climbing Mt.Shasta (14,162 ft) I found myself surrounded by experienced mountaineers who had climbed just about every mountain in the US and abroad. As a total greenhorn who had never scaled a mountain, I had a chance to learn much about the world of high altitude climbing. They all were talking about Mt. Kilimanjaro (19,340ft) and what an awesome and challenging mountain it is. After having successfully reached the top of Mt.Shasta, I vowed that some day I would try this mountain in Africa.

I finally decided that this would be the year to do the climb. It was a long process of intense training – high altitude had never bothered me but I had to contend with my gripping fear of heights. In February of this year I set out for Africa. While there I delivered donated school supplies for the children in Arusha before meeting my climbing group and starting the uphill adventure. Statistically, we only had a 40% chance of making it [statistic for all routes on the mountain].

Our expedition by Thomson Safaris consisted of three women, eight men, four of the most well trained and professional guides, and 42 porters to carry all the gear. As it turned out, I was the only grandmother of the group, so I was given the nickname by the natives of “Bibi” – the Swahili word for grandma. I was touched they had given me that moniker.

We spent time hiking through the lowland bush led by a Masai Warrior who told us his tribe’s history and guided us to see wildlife in its natural habitat. Afterwards we had several briefings by Wilfred, our main guide, with a detailed description of what to expect. We were to carry 10+ lbs. each, including rain gear and any personal items. Each porter was to carry no more than a 33 pound duffel bag. Thomson Safaris is very serious about the weight load limit. Our gear was weighed twice just to make sure.

There were five climate zones to pass through (from lowlands to the summit): Rain Forest Zone, Heather Zone, Moorland, Alpine Desert & the Arctic Summit Zone at 19,000 ft and above.

Three land rovers took us to the trailhead on a rain-soaked dirt road. Before we even reached our destination all the cars became stuck in the mud, so we ended up hiking the remaining miles to the “trail head”. Then the real challenge started.

There are five different ways to climb the mountain. The “coca-cola” route is said to be the most used, easiest and populous one. We went the most beautiful and least traveled one [Western Approach Route], 58 miles in all.

The first day was beautiful, straight up through the jungle with colorful birds and bright flowers. We were up to our ankles in mud and wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. Every day brought us through a different climate zone. We climbed 6-8 hours for seven days. Luckily, meals and tents were set up by the time we trudged into camp at the end of each day. When we finally reached 19,000’ (so near the summit) at noon, we had been up since 4am. At that point we had a choice to either continue to the top (another 340’) with reduced available oxygen or continue to the camp around the corner of the mountain and spend the night there with a fresh start the next morning. We all agreed to continue – it turned out to be the best decision for the group.

At that point I found myself surrounded by the porters spontaneously singing and dancing shouting “Bibi,Bibi”. I joined them in their joyful dance totally unaware that at that altitude, one really needs to preserve energy. A strong, positive mental attitude had helped us all; we supported each other. Finally, we reached the top. All eleven of us made it which is highly unusual [based on all routes on the mountain]. We thought we had it made, totally forgetting that as we had gone up, we now had to get back down!

The two day descent was much more difficult and dangerous. We all were extremely happy when we “landed”. Once there, we were required to sign out of the obligatory government record office. We lined up and when it was my turn the officer, watching every pen stroke, broke out into a loud “congratulations” and shaking of hands. He explained that I am the 2nd oldest woman to ever reach the summit successfully. What a surprise! I am 78. The eldest was 82.

Then came the ceremony where we received our hard-earned certificate of completion. Our porters created the celebratory music and dance. Each recipient was called forward. I was the last one to be called and as the song and dance started, without warning three men lifted me up on to their shoulders carrying me around singing and shouting “Bibi,Bibi.” Was I surprised!

I had not been back to Africa for more than thirty years. However nothing seemed to have changed. In villages, cows are still dominating the streets, many fresh fruit and veggies were displayed outdoors and little kids were everywhere. People were most friendly, hospitable and seemed naturally happy. We saw no tourists neither did we see tourist shops until we were at the airport.

To sum it all up: Physically it was rather strenuous, mentally it was highly challenging, and spiritually it was most uplifting. It is definitely no walk in the park. An adventure I would never have wanted to miss. We met as strangers and we parted as friends, comrades-in-arms. Today we still stay in touch by email and are planning a reunion next February.

Let’s not be afraid of failure because it is no more permanent than is success. It is good to try something we think we cannot do because we find out, we can.

More on Thomson’s Kilimanjaro treks

From our friends  at Thomson Safaris:

Professional photographer Andy Biggs just returned from leading two back-to-back Africa Through the Lens trips in Tanzania. He searched out the large herds of the Great Migration in the southern plains of the Serengeti and was lucky enough to witness four kills.

Andy sent us an update on where he found the migration and where they might be heading.

On Feb 24, we saw a nice congregation of wildebeest and zebra in and around the Gol Kopjes on the southeastern short grass plains, and when I returned to the area on March 5 the migration had moved mostly into the areas south of Ndutu. The game around Ndutu, especially in the swamps to the west, was full of migratory animals, as well as all three big cat species.

We did search for larger herds to the north, and finally found a large pocket west of Makoma Hill. When we moved camp to the central Serengeti, an extremely large chunk of the herds were definitely there. We saw them pouring into Seronera from the west, and we spent the last few days (March 9 – 13) only photographing the big herds in and around Seronera. We even witnessed a pride of lions with 4 successful wildebeest hunts in a 24 hour period. 3 of the hunts were within a 20 minute period at a single water source. It was absolutely amazing, and my travelers were excited to witness such unique sightings.

I believe the migration is split between the southern short grass plains and the central Seronera valley, and if it rains heavily in the next week we may see the migration congregate again down in the south.